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As we age older, we start to get wrinkles. However, there are things that can be done to reduce or delay the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Among these is the use of sunscreen to protect against photoaging. The majority of the undesirable skin changes associated with aging are the result of sun exposure. The underlying collagen and elastin support of the skin breaks down because of sun exposure. However, collagen and elastin are only one part of a complex picture. Young skin has more fat cells in the dermis than older skin. This explains why older skin is more transparent. In aging the skin grows more than is necessary to cover the bones and muscles. So it sags. Gravity is not our friend in aging. Facial muscles sag too. Water retaining elements of the skin become depleted with age as well. The DNA in the skin cells may be changed preventing the skin from reproducing as in young skin. In fact, epidermal turnover rates decrease with age.

Wrinkles can appear as deep in the skin or thin surface lines that once smooth surface of the skin. Wrinkles — or laugh lines, crow’s feet and “signs of character” — are caused by the constant contraction of the muscles as we use our face. Wrinkles result from laughing often, sun exposure and tugging on the skin.

Topical creams and lotions

Aging of the skin is a very complicated process. Wrinkle creams promise to restore the cells and support of the skin by including compounds in the cream, but these things can’t be fixed from the outside. The only anti-wrinkle product worth the hype is a UVA and UVB sunscreen because the use of sunscreen can prevent or forstall wrinkling. However, there are some other beneficial additives out there that may reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Cosmeceuticals containing substances said to be restorative, protective or regenerative are being marketed at cosmetic counters and drug stores. Vitamin C ester, vitamin A, vitamin E, alpha lipoic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, hyalauronic acid, green tea, grapefruit seed extract, alpha hydroxy acid, retinol and epidermal growth factor can be found as ingredients in the various lines of anti-wrinkle creams on the market. These ingredients may act as exfolliants, antioxidants or provide some measure of UV protection but they cannot restore the skin from the outside in. Many are being sold at high prices with exaggerted claims.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are widely used and can be beneficial to skin but the exact amounts needed topically to have an effect have not been established. They are necessary, however, in any product containing natural oils, especially those with polyunsaturated fatty acids. Oxygen in the environment causes the formation of free radicals that are highly reactive and destructive agents for living tissue. Free radicals in a skin care product cause the breakdown of fatty acids and the resultant rancid smell. Free radicals in the body are so destructive that they have been associated with the aging process, cancer, senility, atherosclerosis, and hypertension. Vitamins A, E and C are naturally occuring antioxidants and free radical scavengers. They can be a valuable weapon against premature aging while increasing the shelf-life of the product.

Exfolliants

These products remove dead cells and encourage cell turnover. Naturally occuring fruit acids, alpha and beta hydroxy acid (AHA, BHA), are exfolliants included in various over-the-counter products. They act to mosturize and desquamate dead skin. AHA’s work best on the surface of the skin to remove dry skin or for thickened skin to remove outer layers. BHA’s work better on opening up pores and are more effective in clearing up pimples. Usually the AHA products contain 5-10% AHA while the BHA products might contain 1-2% BHA. More is not necessarily better because these products can cause irritation. Some short-lived stinging upon application of products containing AHA is not uncommon.

Retinoids

Synthetic retinoids are used under a doctor’s care to treat a number of skin conditions. Epidermal cell turnover is increased and the activity of UV stimulated enzymes that degrade collagen is decreased.

Retinol (Vitamin A) is a naturally occurring lipid soluable vitamin prevalent in fish oils, butter and eggs. It produces milder, more subtle effects on skin than tretinoin. Carotene, a water soluable precursor to vitamin A, is produced by many plants and animals. Vitamin A-palmitate is readily absorbed by the skin and converted to Vitamin A. It can clear acne, is effective in reducing the number and depth of wrinkles and lightening of pigmented spots when applied topically.

UV protection

UVA protection is critical to avoid the effects of sun damage to the skin. UVA is of a longer wavelength and penetrates deeper into the dermis causing wrinkles. UVB radiation causes the characteristic redness of a sunburn and is associated with many skin cancers. SPF 15 is recommeded for daily use, but SPF ratings really only apply to UVB protection. To get adequate UVA protection, sunscreen should contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are excellent non-chemical physical sun blockers that usually come in a thicker lotion or cream that may be more or less opaque depending on the size of the suspended particles. These are generally nonirritating but may exacerbate acne.

Botox Injections

Botox is a botulinum toxin which, when injected into the skin around wrinkles of the forehead and eyes, temporarily paralyzes the underlying muscle and smooths the skin in these areas. The results last from four to six months. These injections usually require about 30 minutes and require no recovery time.

Collagen

Collagen is a natural part of skin, muscle, tendon and bones and is the most abundant protein in the body. The collagen which can be injected beneath the skin is derived from calf skin. Collagen is very similar across species but there may still be an allergic rection to an injection of a foreign protein. Therefore, an allergy test is required prior to receiving collagen injections.

Sometimes a synthetic, non-animal hyaluronic acid is used to improve the image of lips and to help get rid of wrinkles, folds and lines. The treatment takes only about 30 minutes and is performed by injecting the compound into the skin. When injected into the skin, the gel lifts the skin and plumps the underlying tissue. The hyaluronic acid biodegrades naturally over time.

Chemical peeling

Chemical peeling involves the use of exfolliating agents that speed up the removal of the outer layer of the skin cells. The natural exfolliants found in fruits and plants, AHAs and BHAs, are the most gentle of the compounds used for mild chemical peeling of the skin. Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is a caustic chemical used in low concentrations to perform skin peels for more than 30 years.

Bu Yazı Çarşamba, Ekim 24th, 2007 16:20 'da Health Kategorisine Yazıldı.Tags: anti aging, antioxidants, botox, chemical peeling, collagen, retinol, sunscreen, uvb, vitamin A, wrinkle creams, wrinklesBu Yazının Cevaplarını RSS 2.0 bildirimi ile takip edebilirsiniz. Cevap Yazabilir yada kendi sitenize alıntı yapabilirsin.